I did not pin down my fabrics. I just set them on top of the paper. Once I added marks with the soy wax, I moved them onto the grass in the shade while the wax hardened. I used a 2" wide coarse paint brush from Home Depot. It is my understanding the brushes should be natural hair, not synthetic. I also like to use a metal spoon to dribble and sort of write with (this is now a craft spoon and cannot be used for food). I own one tjanting tool and used it a bit, but not much.
This fabric is a somewhat heavy silk that had been dyed previously but was dreadfully boring. I added circles and dribbles.
Below is an ice dyed fabric that I want to make look like a galaxy or constellation. It is hard to see the wax, I did a sphere offset to the left from the center, a couple of oval rings around it and spattered wax to mimic stars.
This is another ice dyed fabric also to become a space quilt. I have a large blob offset to the left and splatters radiating from it. The first picture is when I was just starting and the second is after I was done applying wax.
This was a previously folded and dyed piece of silk, I added lines (the dark ones are the wax) and spatters.
The wax should look dark on the fabric, not white. If it is white, check the back side of the fabric and make sure the wax is penetrating through the fabric. If it is not penetrating, the wax needs to be a little warmer. There are lots of white spots on my fabrics, but from the back side they all penetrated.
Also, please note that when you put your fabrics in the shade and go work on another piece, make sure you move the pieces as the shade moves. The wax will re-melt if left in the sun. I had an "Ack!" moment during this session.
My soy wax pieces have hardened, so they get a dip in my dye batches. Today we have dark cherry (with black added), blue (with some black added) and a mix of Wasabi and Olive Green. When bucket dyeing, the fabric, and therefore the wax, will get scrunched, which will create interesting cracks in the wax.
Next time, the results.
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